Articles

This page provides the viewers with articles which cover DIY projects and information to the home owner that wants to try their hands at some projects. Or maybe you are looking for information only. No matter what the reason is, in these articles you might find a solution to your problem. If you have any questions, click here. For a free e-zine that offers articles, information and DIY projects, click here.

How To Install Kitchen Cabinets

Installing kitchen cabinets does not require a great amount of carpentry knowledge. The project can be performed with basic do-it-yourself skills. You also need to have a basic knowledge of various manual and power tools.

Now, you might think that you need several tools to perform such a project, but really, all you need is a few tools and you should get by.

Here are the tools you need to install kitchen cabinets.

Safety glasses

Tape measure

4' carpenter’s level

Hammer

Chalk line (optional)

Drill (for drilling pilot holes)

Drill driver or screwdriver with #2 & #3 bits

Drill bits: 1/8 and 7/32" (additional bits may be requireddepending on accessories installed)

Utility knife (scoring wood shims) – optional

Rubber padded furniture clamps (minimum of two)

Step ladder

Carpenter’s square

Air nailer and brads (optional)

Installing the kitchen cabinets

(Read and study all of the following steps carefully before attempting to install the cabinets).

Start by laying a carpenter’s level on the floor where the cabinets will be installed. If two adjacent walls are going to have cabinets, measure that side of the floor as well.Mark the highest corner. This is where the first base cabinet will be installed. (Usually a corner cabinet if two adjacent walls are being used).
Measure the base cabinet or put it in place and make a mark on the wall at the top of the cabinet.

Use a level to draw a line. Make sure that the line is perfectly level on both walls if two adjacent walls are being used.

Measure the tallest wall cabinet (most common is 30 inches) add 19 inches and make a mark of that measurement from the top line of the base cabinets (the line that was marked with the level). This will be the top of the wall cabinets. Example. If the tallest wall cabinet is 30 inches, then the top line will be marked at 49 inches from the base cabinet top line.

At this time, it’s a good idea to locate the studs. You can use a stud finder or you can tap on the wall until you hear a solid area. Drive a nail below the top line and if you hit a stud mark it just above the top line. Measure every 16 inches interval while checking with a long enough nail or a drill equipped with a 1/8” drill bit.

Use a level to line up the lines from top to bottom for the base cabinets.

Installing the base cabinets

If you don’t have help then I recommend to start with the bottom.Line up the corner cabinet flush with the marked line first and make sure it is square, level and plumb (check all sides). Shim the bottom as needed. Dry fit the rest of the bottom cabinets. Now is the time to square, line up, level and plumb the cabinets.If they don’t line up square to each other, use shims under and behind the cabinets ( between the back and the wall. Make sure that they are on the horizontal line that was marked with the level along the walls.Once satisfied with the alignment you can clamp two cabinets together and fasten them, first to each other from the inside (one screw towards the front and one towards the back at both top and bottom of the cabinet) with 3/4” or 1” screws depending on the thickness of the cabinet walls. Repeat this step to all the cabinets.Once all cabinets are fastened to each other, fasten them to the studs that were already marked.

Installing the wall cabinets

To make life easier, screw a strait edge (¾’’ plywood or 2x4 by six feet long) to the wall and directly on the line that was marked for the wall cabinets. This method will give you something to rest the cabinets on.

The wall units are fastened the same way as the bottom ones except that they are installed one at a time.When you install the second unit, clamp it to the first one (make sure that the edges of both units are flush to each other) then screw them together from the inside and then to the wall.

Tips -

Mark the width of each unit on the wall. This will show how and where the units will be placed. It also allow you to make any changes if needed (before it is too late) and how wide will the fillers be.

Pre-drill the screw holes and start the screws onto the cabinet before you align it in place.

If you are going to end up with fillers, try to have each filler the same size. They look more symmetrical.

Use the diagrams and scetches provided with this guide.

It is a good idea to measure and order the counter top right after the base cabinets are installed.

Cast Iron SewerPipe

Cast Iron Sewer Pipe

Shall I do it myself or hire a contractor. Cast iron pipe is still common in older homes. When and if the time comes to tie onto these pipes, I strongly recomende to read this article so you know what to expect.

Before cutting and tying into the cast iron sewer pipe, decide where the location of the bathtub, shower, sink or toilet, is going to be installed. Second step is to locate the main sewer line.A sure way to locate the sewer line in your home is by breaking the concretearound the basement drain. A hammer drill with a chisel attached to it will make the job that much easier . The bigger the hammer drill the better. An electric jackhammer is the best for this job. You can rent these tools at a rental place. (You can also use a reciprocating saw with a metal blade).

Start by breaking the concrete around the basement drain until you locate the sewer line that runs vertical and know which direction it is running.

Once you locate the sewer line ,break the concrete where you want to tie into the sewer line.

Remove enough dirt from around the cast iron sewer pipe to be able to attach the snapping tool around the pipe.

Cut two, six inch pieces of PVC or ABS pipe (depending on what material you are using) and glue one to each end of a "WYE" pipe fitting.

Measure the "WYE" fitting including both extensions and add 1/16". This is the length of cast iron sewer pipe that needs to be removed.

Wrap a snapping tool perpendicular to the cast iron sewer pipe in order to make a clean cut.

Once the required length of pipe is removed, place a rubber sleeve on each end of the open cut and push them flush or past the edge, to be able to fit the "WYE" fitting between the two cuts.

Slide the rubber sleeves over the PVC/ABS extensions attached to the "WYE" fitting and tighten the clamps just snug.

Now it's time to map out the drain line for the tub, sink or toilet. (You might have to break the concrete floor and dig deep enough to make room for the pipe and fittings).

Cut and dry fit the pipe including all necessary fittings from the "WYE" fitting to the fixture location. Don't forget to include any "P" traps that are needed.

Tip: I leave a minimum of 12 inches distance from the finished wall to the center of the toilet flange. Once all the fittings are in place and satisfactory, put a piece of masking tape on both the fitting and pipe. Make a mark on the masking tape that joins both ends of all joints. This will allow a reference point when it's time to refit the joints for gluing everything together. (When possible, I slide the bathtub with the drain and over flow in place to make certain that all is good).

Glue all the joints together (make sure to line up the marks made on the masking tape).Fit the bathtub, sink or toilet in place and tighten all connections.

Run water to test for leaks and tighten connections as needed.

If all is good. Replace some of the dirt that was removed while packing it every so often. leave about 4" from the top of the floor.

Fill the rest with concrete.

Smoothen the concrete. Feather the edges with thinset as shown in the video.

Note: The thinset can be of different color.

This article should give you an idea how to tie plastic pipe to a cast iron sewer pipe.

Top of Page